Tools and Materials
This page provides general links to different tools and materials that you might need in order to build your pyramid, while the pages listed below can provide more specific links for the type of pyramid you are working on.
Appendix A: Foundation, Leveling, Squaring, and Alignment
Appendix D: The Pyramid Platform
Appendix E: Pyramid Experiments
Compasses:
Coghlan's Compass -- This is what I have most often used to align my pyramids, and I find that it works well.
SUUNTO A-30 -- This is a higher-end compass with great reviews.
Sighting Compass -- This could be a better choice for aligning larger pyramids.
SUUNTO MC-2 -- This is a top-of-the-line sighting compass.
Adhesives:
Titebond "Quick & Thick" -- This is my preferred glue for gluing loose dowels in holes and for gluing any pyramid together that will be indoors.
Liquid Nails -- If you are gluing boards together (like for plywood pyramids, and the Deluxe Meditation Pyramid) and they will either be outside, or there are significant gaps between the boards you are gluing, this is what I recommend. If you have a dispenser, get this one.
Titebond III Ultimate Wood Glue -- This is considered by many woodworkers as the best wood glue and can handle being outdoors--but it doesn't do well with gaps.
Titebond Instant Bond Wood Adhesive -- This is something relatively new and I haven't used it before, but it has really good reviews, and could be very useful in many situations.
Tape:
3" Black Gorilla Tape -- This brand has some of the strongest and stickiest tape I have seen.
3" White Gorilla Tape -- Great for the 15-Minute PVC Pyramid!
3" Brown Duct Tape -- Not as strong and sticky as Gorilla tape, but matches the wood better and can still work.
All-Natural Finishes:
Pure Tung Oil -- Tung oil is the best all-natural wood protection that I have found, but in its pure form, can take up to 30 days to cure. I used to coat my outdoor wooden pyramids with 50% Tung oil and 50% pure orange oil that I mixed together, as the orange oil acts as a natural solvent, making the tung oil penetrate deeper into the wood and allows it to cure within 3-4 days.
Raw Linseed Oil -- This is a nice indoor option, bringing a beautiful luster to wood. But it also cures slowly like tung oil. Orange oil can help with that, but it still won't fully cure for about a month. "Boiled" linseed oil has chemical agents added to it to speed up the drying process. Linseed oil can be used for pyramids outside, but only in dry environments, and it can mold otherwise.
Shellac -- Shellac is a natural, resinous material secreted from the female lac bug, and can create a glossy finish similar to lacquer. I prefer the amber version to give the wood a golden hue. After your first coat dries, it will likely raise the grain of the wood, making it rougher. You can quickly sand that with a very fine 300 grit sandpaper. Then apply another thin coat. After it dries, you can do an even quicker pass with 800 grit sandpaper for a glossy finish. There is also a spray version available. Shellac is not water resistant and should only be used indoors.
Measuring Tools:
Digital Protractor -- This can be a very useful tool in so many situations, especially to help you determine if your cuts are accurate. There is also a stainless steel version.
Digital Caliper -- This can also be a very handy tool when you need to measure the thickness of something accurately. This one is accurate to 0.01" (0.2mm). There is also a stainless steel version that is accurate to 0.001" (0.02mm).
Fat Max Tape Measure -- This is my favorite tape measure. However, this basic one by Amazon has both imperial and metric equivalents, good reviews, and is less expensive.
Set of Steel Rulers -- This looks like a high-quality set of stainless steel rulers with increments in both 1/64" and 0.5mm, really good reviews, and at a great price. You might also want a magnifying glass to go with it.
Hand Tools:
Hand Saw -- This is an inexpensive hand saw with very good reviews.
Speed Square -- This is an inexpensive speed square also with very good reviews. A 7" speed square is the standard size, but this 12" one can be much better, especially if you will be cutting your boards with a hand saw.
Framing Square -- Has imperial units on one side, and metric on the other.
Drill Guide -- This is the drill guide that I recommend if you will be doweling your pyramid together.
6" Clamps -- You can never have enough clamps. Quick clamps are great, but you need it to be really tight (like when using the drill guide), they should be screw clamps like these.
Power Tools:
Drill -- If you will be doweling your pyramid together, this drill has a 1/2" chuck, is corded for more power, and has good reviews.
Circular Saw -- A versatile tool that can, in a pinch, be used to make end cuts, as well as rip cuts if you don't have either a miter saw or a table saw. This saw has a laser guide as well as a rip guide for making rip cuts, if needed.
Sliding Miter Saw -- This first one is the best one I could find: dual bevel, 12" blade, up to a 60° miter angle, and it is made by DeWalt, a respected company with stellar reviews. And it has a large price tag. Do you need a miter saw this good to build your pyramid with? No. There are other options. This miter saw is also dual bevel and a respected company with great reviews, but it only has a 10" blade that doesn't quite go over as far as the DeWalt. But it is a solid choice, and about $100 less. They also have the exact same style with a 7-1/4" blade, which is also a solid choice and even less. If you are looking for a sliding miter saw on the cheap, this seems to be a decent one with good reviews, but it only is a single bevel with a 7-1/4" blade. Nonetheless, I think you could still do a lot with it. Even cheaper yet, is this miter saw, but it is only a chop saw, which isn't ideal if you will be using the 45° Cutting Jig. But for a Giza or Equilateral Simple 2x4 Pyramid, it could definitely work.
Table Saw -- While a circular saw can be used to rip boards following the instructions in my book, using a table saw is the best choice and makes it a lot easier. This first one is the best one I could find. This mid-range one has only an 8.5" blade and doesn't come with a stand, but it looks pretty decent and has good reviews, and I like the angle gauge on it. This lower-end one has a 10" blade and comes with a stand, has good reviews, and will get the job done. When rip cutting long boards, they need to be supported on the back end with either a long table or with roller stands. You can get away with just one, but two are better.
Sander -- If you wish to sand and finish your pyramid. The first is a top-end one with high ratings. This one is probably almost as good at a lower price. And this inexpensive detail sander can undoubtedly do the job, as well.
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