Assembly Instructions For The
Super Deluxe Giza Pyramid
For a printable version of these instructions, click here.
Note: These instructions only cover the assembly of your Deluxe Pyramid. The steps for placing the North and South Stakes for the alignment of your pyramid should be completed before assembling your pyramid. To see instructions on how to do this, click here.
Materials List: Four pieces each, labeled #1 through #9; four Corner Pieces; four Middle Pieces; shims; cordage; and 18 stakes.
Tools needed: A hammer or mallet; a block of wood to use with the hammer; carpenter's square; level; tape measure; scissors; pick and shovel for levelling the ground (if needed); extra blocks of wood like 2x6's and/or cement blocks for levelling pyramid, if necessary; a piece of rebar to help pound in stakes if your ground is hard.
Warning: The tips of the pyramid pieces are fragile and sharp. Please be careful whenever moving them.
First take a look at Diagram 1 and get familiar with how the pyramid fits together. Each side of the pyramid has 9 individual pieces, plus two Corner Pieces and one Middle Piece. Each side has 6 joints where individual pieces fit together: The Top (T) Joint of the pyramid; the Left (L) Joint; the Right (R) Joint; the Lower Left (LL) Joint; the Lower Middle (LM) Joint; and the Lower Right (LR) Joint. Each piece has two different labels, one on each end. For example, the #1 Piece has a Top end (T) that meets at the Top Joint and a Left end (L) that meets at the Left Joint. So if you find a piece that says "1T" on one end, and "1L" on the other end, then this is the #1 Piece with its respective ends. You will notice that the #1 and #2 Pieces are glued together, as well as the #3 and #4 Pieces. You will also note on the diagram--as well as on the pieces--that the #1/#2 Pieces and the #3/#4 Pieces have an "L" and an "R" for their joints on one end. This is because each of these pieces form two different sides of the pyramid: #1 is on the left side on one of the sides, and #2 is on the right on the other side. Also, you may notice that the #5, #6, and #7 Pieces have an extra "DN" (Down) or "UP" on their ends. This is to signify which way is up for each of these Pieces. If this all seems a little confusing to you right now, don't worry about it--it will start to make sense as you put it together.
Step #1: Make sure you have all of the materials and pieces listed on the materials list and all of the tools listed that are necessary. Also check to make sure that all of the pieces are in good condition when coming out of the box, and if you notice any damage, notify me immediately. BE CAREFUL moving the pieces around: They have very sharp tips that break easily if they hit something.
Step #2: Finding a site and aligning it to True North. It is very important that you have level ground wherever you put your pyramid. Also, even more importantly, be selective about where you put your pyramid: Find an area that is most in tune with your energy. If you are going to be the main user of this pyramid, you should be the one walking around figuring out what spot is the best and the most harmonious for you. Also, keep in mind the changing of the seasons: Will this spot get direct sun in the summer? Will it have too much shade in the winter, or be exposed to the wind? All of these factors should be considered, but the most important factor is what is the most harmonious for you.
This was covered on the page "Aligning A Pyramid To True North," which if you haven't read those instructions on how to set up your True North and South Stakes, you should go there now and complete those steps.
Step #3: Levelling your site. This is the most critical and important of all of the steps, and probably the most time consuming. The more level your site is, the easier it will be to set up your pyramid. There are two parts to this step: The first part is to do a rough levelling of the entire area where the pyramid will be. You do not have to be perfect here, just close (unless you want to be perfect). In fact, you don't have to really do any levelling at all. You can just leave it the way it is and just level the pyramid on its blocks. But if you have a bumpy or sloping area, I recommend that you do some general levelling because you shouldn't have any blocks raised up more than six inches, otherwise the pyramid could be unstable. Digging out bumps and hills and filling in holes is a very good idea.
Step #4: All right, after you've gotten a rough levelling done of your site, and you are satisfied with it, the next step is to lay out the base of the pyramid and level it where it sits upon its blocks. Lay out the #8 and #9 Pieces, plus the Corner and Middle Pieces according to Diagram 2. You will want to lay them in the area where one side of the pyramid is next to the True North and South Stakes that you have already set up. Make sure that you do not have the #8 and #9 Pieces turned around: Make sure that "8LL" and "9LR" are at the corners, and "8LM" and "9LM" are in the center. Also, for the third time, be very careful that the tips don't hit anything.
Once you've laid out the #8 and the #9 Pieces in a basic square next to the North and the South Stakes, connect the Middle and the Corner Pieces to the pieces, making the square for the base of the pyramid. If you have a helper, have your helper connect one end of the #8 or #9 Piece while you connect the other end to its respective Bottom Piece so that the tips are not damaged. After you connect a Corner Piece, check it with the carpenter's square to make sure it is square. Next, when you connect a Middle Piece, check to make sure it is straight by eyeing down the line from one side. Keep doing this process until you have completed the square. Be sure not to move a piece more than a few inches after it is connected to one of the Bottom Pieces, as it could cause damage to the Joint.
Step #5: Pounding in the guiding stakes. After completing the square, and checking to make sure everything is square and straight, the next step is to pound in the guiding stakes for that square (because the square will be taken apart in the following step). First, make sure that the square is pushed up (gently) against the North/South Stakes. If it has to be moved, you should go around the entire square again, making sure each corner is square (using the carpenter's square), and that each Middle Joint is straight.
At this point, you will want to pound in the 16 stakes provided, as shown in Diagram 2: Pound them in on the inside of the square at the corners--about 18 inches from the outside edge--and pound them on the outside edge of the square in the middle, a few inches outside of the ends of each Middle Piece. (Refer to Diagram 2 to get a better understanding.) Make sure that you don't pound in the center stakes in front of the Middle Pieces, but a couple of inches to either side of them. Also, be careful to watch the stakes when you are pounding them in near the Middle Piece that you don't damage the outside edges of the #8 and #9 Pieces where it is touching. Also, make sure that the stakes don't move on you when you are pounding them in: You want them to be as verticle as possible, and with the flat side against the edge of the #8 and #9 Pieces. If they significantly move on you when pounding them in, pull them out and repound them in, starting with a new hole. If you have trouble pounding in the stakes because your ground is really hard, use a piece of rebar and pound it in a little ways and then pull it out to get the hole started.
Step #6: Levelling the square. This is a critical step, and you want to make sure you do a good job. First, remove the outside stakes that are near each Middle Piece and lay them with the point right above the hole where they go in. The reason they need to be removed is because you will be raising, lowering, and moving the #8 and #9 Pieces, and their edges will get damaged if you leave those stakes in. Also, pull out the two inside corner stakes that are on the same side as the North/South Stakes (but leave the remaining corner stakes in). Remember to lay them on the ground with the tips right above the hole where they go in.
So you will want to start with the Corner Piece or Middle Piece that is the highest point on the square. If it is obvious to you which is the highest Bottom Piece, then you can skip the rest of this paragraph. Otherwise, use the level by placing it in the center of one of the #8 or #9 Pieces to see which end is the higher end. When the bubble on the level is in between the two lines, then the higher end is the side that the level is touching. Go to that end of that #8 or #9 Piece, which is connected to either a Corner Piece or a Middle Piece, and then continue on around the square to the adjacent #8 or #9 Piece that is connected to that same Bottom Piece on the other side, and check it with the level. Keep going around the square until you find the Bottom Piece that is the highest. It is possible that there could be two or more high points and you don't know which is the higher point. That's O.K. Take your best guess and leave it at that.
Please note for the next step: You really shouldn't raise up a Corner or Middle Piece with more than two 2x6 blocks because it may make the pyramid too unstable. You can get away with raising up a piece higher by using a cement block with a wide base on it, like a cinder block. If it is obvious that some Bottom Pieces are going to have to be raised more than that, you may have to take apart the square base, and then add dirt or sand to the low spots, and take away dirt from the obviously high spots. (See Step 7 for the proper procedure to take apart the square.) If you think you can do it, you might be able to add dirt or sand under the lowest Bottom Pieces while your helper is holding up that Bottom Piece. (Whenever you add or remove dirt or sand, make sure you reinsert the guiding stakes so that you don't loose the placement of those stakes.) If you do have to take apart the square, the one good thing is that you only have to add or remove dirt in those areas where the Bottom Pieces will be sitting, which will be indicated by where the corner and middle stakes are. (Be sure to reinsert the middle stakes after you have removed the Pieces from the area.) Use one of the #8 or #9 Pieces along with the level to make adjoining spots where each Bottom Piece will be sitting level with each other.
All right, so starting with the highest Corner or Middle Piece on the square, go in a clockwise or counter-clockwise direction (your choice) over to the next Corner or Middle Piece and add shims (that came with your pyramid), blocks, sand, or dirt under that Piece until the #8 or #9 Piece between the two Bottom Blocks is level. (Make sure that whenever you check to see if a #8 or #9 Piece is level, you place the level in the center of that #8 or #9 Piece.) Continue on in the same direction to the next Bottom Piece in the square and add shims, blocks, etc. until the next #8 or #9 Piece is level. (Note: If you get to a Bottom Piece that is higher, not lower than the previous Bottom Piece, then that Piece is probably higher than the Bottom Piece you started with, and you will need to start the same process over again, beginning with this Piece all the way around the square.)
Keep going around the entire square, levelling each #8 and #9 Piece by adding shims and blocks under each Bottom Piece along the way, until you get back to the original Bottom Piece that you started with that was the highest Bottom Piece.
If this Piece now needs to be raised up to make the last #8 or #9 Piece level, instead of raising up this Piece, go back around the square and see if you need to remove any shims from any of the other Bottom Pieces. If, on the other hand, you find that you would need to lower this Bottom Piece in order to make the last #8 or #9 Piece level, then go back around the square, checking each #8 and #9 Piece to see if you need to add any shims under any of the Bottom Pieces. Once you add or remove a shim from a Bottom Piece, you will need to go to the next Bottom Piece to see if that one needs to be raised or lowered as well. Ideally, you should be able to go around the entire square without having to raise or lower any Bottom Piece before you can say it is completely level. But perfection is a limitation, so if you can't get it perfect, then do it as close as you can.
Step #7: Disconnecting the square. The next step is to disconnect the Bottom Pieces from the #8 and #9 Pieces and to move them, along with any blocks and shims, back to where they were previously, as shown in Diagram 2. You may find it easier to disconnect the #8 and #9 Pieces and move them outside of the stakes, then remove the Bottom Pieces, blocks and shims, and then after they are all removed, replace the #8 and #9 Pieces around the stakes in a rough square. Don't worry if you don't replace them perfectly, as the guiding stakes will put them back in place later. Also make sure that you move the blocks and shims with the Bottom Pieces and you know which Bottom Piece belongs with which blocks and shims.
Step #8: Now position the four #3/#4 Pieces and two #6 and two #7 Pieces according to Diagram 3 (without connecting them together, yet). Make sure the "3LL" and "4LR" ends are at the corners of the square, and the "6LM" and "7LM" ends of the #6 and #7 Pieces are near where Middle Pieces will connect with the square. Also, move the outer ends of the #8 and #9 Pieces on the left and right sides of the square a few inches out of the way (as shown in Diagram 3). (Note that in Diagram 3 the middle stakes are incorrectly shown still in place. Also, there are two stakes with a string connected to it that was my old method for aligning a pyramid to True North. You can ignore it.)
Step #9: Connecting the triangles. The next step is to connect the pieces together to form four triangles, as shown in Diagram 3. You will notice that whenever you connect two Pieces together, they will both have the same letters: "3LL" connects to "8LL"; "6LM" connects to "8LM"; "7LM" connects to "9LM"; "9LR" connects to "4LR"; etc.
Each time you connect a triad of pieces together to form a triangle, there is a method to follow: Make sure the ends of all three pieces are nearly touching each other. Check to see that both Pieces you are about to connect together have the same letters (i.e. "R" to "R", "LL" to "LL", etc.). Line up the dowels to the holes of the other Piece and push them in only halfway. Go to the second joint, and repeat the process, connecting them only halfway as well. Now go to the third joint of the triangle, and after checking to make sure the letters are the same, connect this joint halfway as well. Then go back to the first joint and push it in all of the way. Then do this with the second joint, and then finish the triangle by pushing the third joint in all the way.
Whenever you are connecting a triangle together, there is always the possibility that there could be some twist to one or more of the boards. I use two dowels per connection so that if there are any twists, they should be pretty much eliminated once the joint is connected together. But the trick is that when you are connecting the third joint of a triangle, and there is a combined significant twist for all three boards (which actually doesn't happen to often), then you need to be able to twist the ends of both boards the right way to line up the dowels with the holes before connecting them together. So if you are having trouble connecting the third joint, take a look at how the dowels are lining up with the holes, and if they are off, twist them a little bit to get them in line before you push them in. This is a time when it would be really helpful to have a helper holding one Piece and twisting it one way and pushing it in, while you are holding the other Piece and twisting it the other way and pushing it into the holes. Make sure you both twist the right way and don't overtwist. You would only need to do this in extreme cases when the combined twist of all three boards being connected together makes it difficult to connect them together. Never try to hammer the joints together until they are at least part way in. And if you twist the boards in such situations, you shouldn't ever need to use a hammer. Once you have gotten the dowels in the holes, if they will not go completely in by pushing alone, then you can lightly tap one side using a hammer or a mallet and a piece of wood as a buffer. If you do have to tap the joint with a hammer, have your partner support the other side of the joint, if needed, and then check to see if any of the other joints in the triangle came loose and reconnect them if they have.
There is also one other trick you can do should you come across a really stubborn joint: Disconnect both ends of that Piece, and then connect the more difficult side first. Once it is in, you should find that it is easier to connect the other end.
So in the case of these four triangles, there are two different triangles, two of each kind: In the first triangle, first connect "3L" to "6L-DN" halfway, then "6LM-DN" to "9LM" halfway, then "3LL" to "8LL" halfway, and then connect the joints fully. In the case of the second triangle, first connect "7R-DN" to "4R" halfway, then connect "7LM" to "9LM" halfway, then connect "9LR" to "4LR" halfway, and then connect the joints fully. If you have to hammer any of the joints together, look to see if the other joints came loose. Do NOT connect "6LM-UP" to "7LM-UP." Keep the middle joints between the triangles separated by a couple of inches, as shown in Diagram 3.
Step #10: After connecting all four triangles, place the remaining two #6 Pieces and the remaining two #7 Pieces according to Diagram 4:
First pull the two remaining #8 and #9 Pieces a couple of inches apart from each other so that they don't interfere with each other in later steps. Also, make sure the '8LL' and '9LR' ends of these pieces are moved a couple of inches away from the corners of the adjacent triangles (which wasn't shown very well in Diagram 4). Then, the two '6LM-DN' ends of the two #6 Pieces are laid down next to the two '8LM' ends of the two single #8 Pieces. The other end is carefully placed on top of the adjacent triangle, like in Diagram 4. Now connect '6LM-DN' to '8LM' for both Pieces. You may have to move the '6L' ends of the #6 Pieces back and forth until you get the right angle for the best connection. The two '7LM-DN' ends are then placed next to the two '9LM' ends, with the other end of the #7 Piece resting on top of the adjacent triangle. Now connect '7LM-DN' to '9LM' in the same manner as you connected the #6 Pieces.
It should now look like Diagram 4. And again, make sure there are a couple of inches of space between the pieces at both the 'LM' Joints and the 'LL' and 'LR' Joints.
Step #11: Raising the triangles. It would be helpful to have a partner for this step, but not absolutely necessary. Start with one of the four groups of Pieces that is pushed up against one of the North/South Stakes. Note that there are two different types of groups: #7-#9 Pieces laying on top of a #3/#4-#6-#8 triangle, and #6-#8 Pieces laying on top of a #3/#4-#7-#9 triangle. It doesn't matter which group you start with first. While you are raising the Pieces, your partner will be at the corner joint making sure the ends of the two different pieces don't interfere with each other, and to make sure that when you raise the pieces, the outer edge of the #8 or #9 Piece does not rub against the North or South Stake. Now slowly raise the top part of the #6 Piece resting on top of the triangle (or #7 Piece, depending on which group you start with first) and watch that the joints at the Bottom Middle Joint don't get caught up with each other. While raising the #6 (or #7) Piece, slowly raise up the #3/#4-#7-#9 triangle (or #3/#4-#6-#8 triangle) by lifting the top of the triangle where the #3/#4 and the #6 (or #7) Pieces meet. Connect '6L-DN' to '3L' (or '7R-DN' to '4R') when the pieces meet up with each other. Insert the dowels as far as they will go without forcing them. Note: Until the bottom joint at the corner is connected they won't go in all of the way. If you are having trouble lining up the two Pieces at the top, you may have to have your partner adjust the base of the triangle, carefully (watch the corners!) moving laterally it back and forth until the dowels line up with each other. Though hopefully that won't be necessary if the Pieces are where they should be according to the guiding stakes.
Once you have connected the joint at least partially, have your helper connect the corner joint of that group together while you are still holding the top joint securely. Your helper will either be connecting '3LL' to '8LL', or '4LR' to '9LR', depending on the group. Once connected, connect the top joint all the way. If the top joint still isn't going in all the way, you may have to move one or both of the corners at the Bottom Middle Joint inward so that it is just in front of the tip of the center guiding stake, laying on the ground.
After both joints are fully connected check to make sure all of the other joints in that group are still fully connected. Also make sure that it is pushed up against the North or South Stake (gently), as well as the one inside corner stake is touching the #8 or #9 Piece. Now reinsert the other inside corner stake opposite the North or South Stake.
Next, reinsert the two middle stakes for that group, one pushed up against the #8 Piece on one side, and the other pushed up against the #9 Piece on the other side. (Careful with the edges of the #8 and #9 Pieces.)
Now repeat the same steps for the group of pieces that is pushed up against the other North or South Stake, making sure that when you raise up the Pieces, it doesn't rub against that Stake and that the joints at the bottom don't get caught up with each other. Once the next group is fully connected, before reinserting any stakes, connect the two groups together by connecting '6LM' to '7LM'. If you are having difficulty connecting them together, place the shims and blocks for that Middle Piece under the two Pieces to be connected without the Middle Piece, and then try connecting them. It is also easier doing this when you have a helper pushing on one side and you on the other side. Be careful when raising or moving the joint of the first group that it doesn't rub against the outside stake. Also, you want to move the second group of Pieces to the first group when connecting them together. The first group of Pieces you connected together should not move at all.
Once the two groups are connected, connect the Middle Piece underneath them, and then connect the Corner Pieces for both groups. If you are having any trouble connecting them, check to make sure that the 'LM', 'LR', and 'LL' Joints are fully connected. After that, replace the shims and blocks for each Bottom Piece. Next, push up the second group against the North or South Stake (gently) and then reinsert the inside corner stake opposite the North or South Stake. And then, reinsert the two middle stakes for that group.
Continue the same processes for the remaining two groups. If, at any point, you get to a place where you can't seem to connect two triangles together, move on to the next group and come back to it after you have completed the other groups of Pieces. One other note, when connecting the last two triangles together, you may have to raise up the LM Joints of each Piece a little bit higher than just the height of the blocks and shims for that Middle Joint.
Step #12: Once the raising of the triangles is completed, recheck to make sure that all joints are fully connected, the pieces are all in line with the guiding stakes, and especially the North and South Stakes, and finally, make sure that everything is still level.
Step #13: Adjusting the top corner joints. This is probably the most important step of all of the steps, as it will assure an easy fitting of the top part of the pyramid in the final steps. Please make sure that you follow this step carefully.
Take one of the #5 Pieces and line it up on one side where '5L-DN' meets with '6L-UP' and '5R-DN' meets with '7R-UP'. (See Diagram 1 if you need clarification on where the #5 Piece goes.) 
You may want to have a helper hold one end of the Piece and connect that end, while you try to connect the other end. (Tip: Your helper should only insert his end into the joint halfway.) More than likely, after you insert one side of the #5 Piece into the joint, you will find that the other side of the #5 Piece sticks out too far to fit into the other joint. (If the #5 Piece is too short, recheck your levelling on the #8 and #9 Pieces.) If it does stick out too far, remove the #5 Piece and then put a shim under the Middle Piece for that side. (Put the shim in perpendicularly, or in some way where it will be easy for you to recognize and to pull out later after the pyramid is complete. Also, be careful when raising or lowering the Middle Piece that it does not rub against the outside guiding stakes.)
Note: Everytime you lift up on a Middle Piece to add or remove a shim, make sure that you set down the Middle Piece in the same place, as pushing the Middle Piece outward will make the two upper corners come closer, and pulling it inward will make them go further apart.
After putting in the shim, recheck with the #5 Piece to see if it fits properly. If it is still too far, pull off the #5 Piece and add another shim. If, on the other hand, the #5 Piece is too short to reach both joints, then pull out the shim and replace it with a narrower one. Continue adding and removing shims until the #5 Piece fits easily in both joints, when they are both in only halfway.
Note: If you find that by adding a shim, it makes the upper corners too far apart, and by removing that shim it makes them too close together, try slightly adjusting the Middle Piece: Push it out slightly to make the corners closer together. Pull in slightly to make them further apart. Don't pull or push too far.
Once you have the right alignment, remove the #5 Piece and do the next side. Continue this process until all four sides are in alignment with the #5 Piece.
Go back to the original side and see if the #5 Piece still fits properly, after all of the other sides have been adjusted. Make any necessary adjustments, and then check the second side. Once the #5 Piece fits all four sides properly without having to make any more adjustments, you are ready for the next step.
Step #14: Setting up the top part of the pyramid. Look at Diagrams 5 and 6. The top part of the pyramid will be set up inside the bottom part of the pyramid. Note that the orientation of the pyramid is rotated 45 degrees to allow for easier lifting once it is to be raised.
Place the four #5 Pieces inside the pyramid at the 45 degree angle, forming the square base of the top of the pyramid. Make sure that '5L' is on the left side and that '5R' is on the right. Now move off to the side two of the #5 Pieces as shown in Diagram 6. Now place two of the four #1/#2 Pieces on the ground, forming a triangle with one of the #5 Pieces that wasn't moved. Make sure that '1L' matches up with '5L-UP' on the left side, '2R' matches up with '5R-UP' on the right, and '1T' matches up with '2T' at the top.
Connect '1T' with '2T' halfway, then '1L' to '5L-UP' halfway, then '2R' to '5R-UP' halfway. Then connect them together fully.
Carefully lay the two remaining #1/#2 Pieces on top of the first triangle, forming the second triangle with the opposite #5 Piece, as shown in Diagram 6. Make sure you match up the Pieces and connect them together in the same way.
Step #15: Raising the triangles. Raise up the apexes of the two triangles and partially connect them together. Don't force them in all of the way until the remaining two #5 Pieces are connected to the triangles. If you should have any trouble getting all four dowels to line up with the four holes, have your helper adjust one of the triangles laterally until they line up. You may have to fiddle with it for a bit to figure it out. (Be careful with the corners whenever moving the triangles.)
Now, while you or your partner is holding the triangles together at the apex, connect the two remaining #5 Pieces to the triangles. '5L-UP' connects to '1L' and '5R-UP' connects to '2R'. If you are having any problems connecting one of the joints together, remember to try disconnecting the other end, and connecting the harder end first.
Once both #5 Pieces are fully connected, push the joints all the way in at the apex. As this is a complex joint, with 8 individual Pieces coming together into one point, you may have to do a little persuading to get all 8 Pieces to come in together all the way. If so, tap on each of the four sides with a mallet and a piece of wood to help them come together. After doing that, check the bottom joints again to make sure they are connected fully.
It is important for the next step to make sure that the joints on the bottom corners of the top part of the pyramid, and the #6/#7 Joints of the bottom pyramid are fully connected before proceding.
Step #16: Raising up the top pyramid. This is where you will need at least four people, including yourself, though I highly recommend that you have a total of at least 5 people, and 6 would be ideal. You will only need the extra people for about 10 or so minutes, assuming everything up to this point is done, and you have read the instructions and know what to do next. The four people who will be raising up the top part of the pyramid will need to be in good enough physical condition to be able to lift their part of the pyramid (about 30 lbs.) up to their chest and to be able to hold it there for up to 3 minutes, if necessary. If you are not able to round up the required number of people right away, the pyramid can be left the way it is until you get them. If it is going to be rainy weather, you might consider putting the top part of the pyramid up on blocks (2x4s or 2x6s). (You might want to do it anyway, as it will make grabbing onto the pyramid to lift it up easier in the following steps.) And regardless of the weather, plastic baggies should be wrapped around each of the 16 dowels sticking up on the upper corners of the bottom part of the pyramid (the '6L' and '7R' Joints) and tied with a string or secured with a rubber band. This is to prevent the dowel pins from sucking up moisture and expanding, making them more difficult to fit in their respective holes.
Once you have your helpers, the next step is to assign a position for each one. If there are only a total of 4 of you (which I don't recommend), then each of you will be holding and lifting up one of the 4 sides of the top part of the pyramid. If you have a total of 5 or 6 people, then you will have the 4 strongest and tallest people do the lifting, and the fifth and sixth people will be there to help connect the corner joints together while the other four people are simply holding the pyramid in place. Ideally, since you are the most familiar with how the joints fit together and getting them to twist in order to get them in, you would be one of the extra people helping to get the corner joints together, if possible. (But if you are needed in the lifting part of the pyramid, then that is more important.)
Look at Diagram 7. It is important when you rehearse this step with your helpers that you make sure they are positioned accordingly. Each person will be more or less standing where their side of the pyramid will be after it has been rotated 45 degrees. What that means is that before you lift the pyramid up, everyone should place their feet parallel to their side of the pyramid, their right foot in front of their left foot, both feet just a couple of inches from the pyramid. From this position, their body will be oriented so that their side of the pyramid will be to their left, and when they bend over to pick it up, their hands will be right in the center of the #5 Piece. The reason you will not be facing the pyramid directly when you bend over to pick it up is because if you do, your back will hit the upper corner of the #6/#7 Joint when you lift it up. Also note that each person will be lifting up their side from the center of their #5 Piece. They will not be lifting the pyramid from its corners.
So once you get everyone in position, you will first do a dress rehearsal, with you as the director. So without anybody actually lifting up the pyramid, you will count to three, and then everyone will act like they are slowly lifting up their side of the pyramid. You want everyone to go slowly, and they each should be watching you for how fast to raise your imaginary pyramid (or just watching each other if you are not one of the lifters). You want everyone lifting up the pyramid at the same speed so that it stays relatively level. After raising it up about a foot, go through the motions of having everyone pause at this point and asking if everyone has a good grip and is doing OK. (If not, when doing it for real, have everyone slowly lower their side back down.) Otherwise, on the count of three again, slowly continue to raise your imaginary pyramid up until the bottom of it is above the level of the '6L' and '7R' Joints that it will eventually sit upon. You want to make sure that when you do it for real, each of the four corners of the top pyramid is a couple of inches above the '6L' and '7R' Joints before the pyramid is rotated 45 degrees, otherwise it will hit the bottom part of the pyramid. You will once again ask to make sure everybody is doing OK at this point. (If not, when for real, have them slowly lower the pyramid at your signal.)
If everyone is doing fine, then at your signal, have them slowly rotate the pyramid to their left (which would be clockwise), until the four corners of the pyramid are right above the #6/#7 corners that they will be sitting upon.
Now, at this point, there are two different ways to do this: If you have one or two extra helpers, then have them get the corner joints connected while the other 4 people simply hold their sides of the pyramid a little above the corner joints. Everyone should have their side of the pyramid high enough so that the corners are not touching the #6/#7 corners. They should not try to lower and connect their corners until the extra helpers ask them to place them on the #6/#7 Joints.
So if you have one extra helper, then that person should pick a Joint and try to connect it. He/she may have to look underneath to see how the 4 dowels are lining up with the holes, and direct the other four helpers to slowly move or rotate the pyramid in a certain direction, if necessary. Once the first Joint is lined up, it should slip in. If there are still problems because of possible twisting, he/she can try to compsate by twisting the corner of the top of the pyramid, or if that doesn't work, he can always go onto another corner. If there are two extra helpers, then have one twist the top part of the Joint one way while pushing down, while the other helper twists the other way on the bottom part of the Joint while holding it in place or slightly lifting up. When twisting the top pyramid, one should twist on the two joining #5 Pieces, while watching that they don't separate from the #1/#2 Piece that they are connected to. When twisting the #6/#7 Joint, twist from those two Pieces, but watch to make sure that they don't separate from the #3/#4 Pieces that they are connected to. When the Pieces are already partially connected and you are trying to push them in all of the way, pull down on the #1/#2 Pieces (not the #5 Pieces) of the top pyramid and pull slightly up on the #3/#4 Pieces(not the #6 and #7 Pieces) of the bottom part of the pyramid.
Now, if you don't have an extra helper or two, you have to try and connect the corners on your side first. You will have to try to place one of the corners of the pyramid either to your right or to your left (your choice) onto the #6/#7 Joints. If, at any point in this process, you run into any difficulties and you can't get at least two corners connected, you should reraise the pyramid off of its corners, slowly rotate the pyramid back to its 45 degree angle, and then, at your signal, slowly lower the pyramid to the ground--and consider getting an extra helper.
When you try to place one of the corners of the pyramid onto the #6/#7 Joint, tell your helpers what you are doing so that they aren't confused. Make sure you continue holding your side of the pyramid in the center of the #5 Piece. If one corner fits on at least halfway, then you can slowly slide over to the corner on the other side of you while carefully watching to make sure that the first corner doesn't slip out, and try to connect that corner together as well. If the first corner you try doesn't slip on, lift up that side and try the second corner first. If you are not successful with either corner then try having one of the other helpers connect one of the other corners, at your direction. It is very important that nobody move their grip from the center of their #5 Piece. If one person can get at least one corner at least halfway on, then they can slowly slide over while carefully watching that the opposite corner doesn't come off, and try to place the corner on their other side onto the #6/#7 Joint.
Once you get two corners secure (make sure they are pushed as fully and firmly as possible--at LEAST halfway in, if not most of the way in--and will not come out) then that person holding the #5 Piece between those two corners can help you connect the remaining corners together (unless you already have two helpers, in which case she can just continue to hold his #5 Piece to be safe).
Aside from needing to twist a Piece to get it in line, you may also find that the #6/#7 Joints have moved a little and are either too far or too close to match up with the #5 Piece. You will then have to lift up and out slightly on the #6/#7 corner if it is too close, or push down and in slightly if it is too far away. If you have to lift up, lift up on the #3/#4 ascending leg, not the #6 and #7 Pieces. If you have to push down on the corner, push on the #6 and #7 Pieces, not the #3/#4 Pieces.
If you have an extra helper, you can also try having that person move the Bottom Piece on that side slightly out to make the #6/#7 Joints closer together, or slightly inward to make them further away.
Just remember that the key to an easy fit is to make sure that all four dowels line up with their four respective holes. And there are two different things that may need to be done in order to do that: One, twisting the ends of both the top part of the pyramid as well as the bottom #6/#7 Joint; and two, pulling or pushing that #6/#7 Joint in order to make it the right distance for the #5 Piece. More than likely, you won't have too many problems, but if there is a corner that will need to be adjusted, it will probably be the last one; which, if all of the other corners are secure, you will be able to use your other helpers, if needed, to get it in.
After all four corners are secure and at least halfway in, you can go on to the next step.
Step #17: Securing the Joints. After all four corners are connected partially, if not completely, the next step is to go to each of the the joints and tap them with a hammer or a mallet (and a piece of wood) if they are not completely connected. These four Joints are also very complex Joints, with 8 individual Pieces meeting together at different angles. So you may want to have your helpers watch/hold all four corners of the #6/#7 Joints until you are done tapping on each of those Joints, just to be safe.
Start with the Joint that looks furthest apart. While one assistant is pulling down on the ascending #1/#2 Piece (not the #5 Pieces) for that Joint, tap lightly on the tops of each of the #5 Pieces (use a piece of wood as a buffer). Make sure when you are doing this step that the #1/#2 Pieces do not separate from the #5 Pieces on the top part of the Joint. Once it gets to a point where it is as closely connected as it will go, then tap lightly (with the wood in between, of course) on each of the two outside faces of that Joint, alternating back and forth until that Joint is fully connected. Repeat these steps for all 4 Joints.
Step #18: Pulling out the shims. Next, pull out all of the temporary shims that were used in order to put the top part of the pyramid on.
Step #19: Next, check and make sure all of the Joints on the entire pyramid are completely connected (tap lightly on the face of the Joint with a board and hammer if not). After that, check to make sure the pyramid is lined up with the True North and South Stakes. (If they are not, be VERY careful about shifting your pyramid. You should have at least two people to move it--four is better. Don't move it more than 2 inches if you have to. And if you have any uncertain blocks that might tumble down, you shouldn't move it at all.)
Step #20: Staking down your pyramid. Now, starting at one of the corners next to your North/South stakes, remove the guiding stake on the opposite side of the #8 or #9 Piece from the North/South Stake. Pound in that stake next to the inside dowel on the Corner Piece, and when the hole in the stake is about level with the bottom of the dowel, cut a piece of cordage of the appropriate length that came with your pyramid and tie a tight loop with it through the hole and around the dowel. 
Once it is tight, continue to pound in the stake until the cord is taut. (Don't pound it in with all of your might. Just make it relatively tight: You don't want to move the pyramid off of its North/South Stakes.) Once it is tight, and the pyramid has not moved off of the N/S Stake, pull out the other corner stake and repeat. (Again, make sure the pyramid is still aligned with the N/S Stakes after pounding in the stake.) Continue this process for all four corners, making sure the pyramid doesn't move.
After all four corners are done, go to one of the Middle Pieces and pull out one of the middle stakes and pound it in like the corner stakes. 
Once that one is in and the pyramid hasn't moved, pull out the second middle stake and repeat. Do this for all four Middle Pieces. And lastly, after checking that your pyramid is still aligned with your True North/South Stakes, you can remove them.
Congratulations!
Your pyramid is now complete! May wondrous, magical journeys beyond your wildest imaginations manifest into your reality.
So be it.
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